Tempting kebabs, scented biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has consistently been a food lovers' paradise, with inhabitants and visitors alike praising its remarkable cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Last month, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization designated it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – placing it on a exclusive roster of world cities and sparking hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this designation, it becomes part of a international community of over 400 metropolises across over 100 countries committed to promoting "artistic expression as a driver of development that sustains urban life".
The accolade "demonstrates its centuries-old culinary traditions and dynamic culinary scene," according to a official from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to find a place in this coveted list of seventy urban centers internationally.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The accolade for this time-honored city is no surprise to its inhabitants or dedicated food lovers. Many share the sentiment that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO recognition, this beloved, chaotic, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is finally in the spotlight for what has consistently characterized its heart: an unparalleled devotion for food.
"'The day's menu, how will it be cooked' is a continued dialogue from waking up until going to bed in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are actually evaluated by the excellence of food that comes out of your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of Nawabs – as it's widely known after its historic affluent Muslim rulers – is famed for its tender kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were created, perfected, and raised to extraordinary levels in their royal kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were hubs of gastronomic creativity, blending Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were created. The story goes that the galouti kebab was invented to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks processed the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, slow heat, with the pot's lid tightly closed with a flour paste.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Apart from the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just showcases seasonal produce but also gives the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Almost on every corner, there are small establishments and carts – hidden gems that are immensely popular with the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, throngs of people start milling around from early morning at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, offered in kulhads, along with pillowy soft buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can visit a simple joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also presents special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert found in the winter. The method of making it is scientific and complicated. The vendor whisks the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing light consistency.
On chilly mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many but express concern that their children do not want to take up the art.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has noted that the city's profound food legacy positions it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – crafted by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The global recognition, it is hoped, will motivate more people around the world to learn these tales and experience the city to taste the food wonders of Lucknow.
